Today started with a lecture by Professor Tuo Tianfu on Daoism. He was a bit difficult to understand but so far the most entertaining lecturer. He talked about the history and origin of Daoism in preparation for our trip to the Beijing White Cloud Daoist Temple this afternoon.
Even though the busy Beijing road was just outside the door it was amazingly peaceful and quiet. We started by throwing fake coins at two bells just inside the entrance. One was for wealth and the other for safety. I never hit the wealth bell but did manage to get a little ding on the safety bell. I considered the safety bell a priority so it wasn't disappointing for me.
There were little temples scattered throughout. It is an active temple so there were people scattered throughout praying and offering incense. There were also monks walking about, reading the paper and replacing the smaller incense when it burned out. I took several pictures of the huge incense burners. I kept thinking of both Bill and Craig, who have probably equally commented on my incense burning habits.
I popped in to pray to the guy who is in charge of disease and illness. I thought I had taken a photo of the information about him but can't seem to find it now. I do believe there is one of me taken outside the door by Henry but I can't find his specific information. In any case, I thought it was at least worth a shot. I didn't bow or do any incense or the things you are supposed to do but I stopped in briefly. It was one of the busier temples.
Henry and I are standing outside chatting and a Daoist monk comes over and hands me something wrapped in a red cloth. He is speaking to me and gesturing but I have no idea what to do. Fortunately Henry was providing guidance and I finally understand that I was to go in and pray. I kneeled down but am pretty sure that I didn't do it right. He gives me a box and opens it to show me that it is incense. He then motions for me to bow down again. At this point he was probably suggesting that I do that at some other point but I did it again anyway. Sunglasses, bag, camera are all over the place so Henry comes in to help me with my things. The monk brings out another box with a scroll and I'm starting to think that maybe he is selling these things.
Someone from Malaysia (I think that is right) was behind us and she said he means for you to keep it. The scroll he was holding was for longevity and wealth and was intended for Henry. The thing in red turned out to be a statue. The little old man with the white beard kind of statue. The male tourist then explained something about affinity and he said that the monk must have felt something about me or he would not have given me the gifts. Same for Henry I am thinking since he also received a gift. He said I could either go light the incense or keep it as a souvenir. I chose to keep it but was wondering if this was a mistake. He had taken me into the temple that had something to do with wealth. Maybe I was meant to light the incense. But as we gathered near the exit he approached again and gave me an incense burner. He motioned for me to fill it with something and then place the incense inside to burn. I figured this was a sign that I should keep it. I'm not really sure what to think of it but couldn't help being touched.
********
After our visit to the temple we went to the Beijing Enamel Factory. Enamel as in cloisonne. It was interesting to see the ladies at work but we couldn't see more than a couple of ladies who seemed a bit like animals in the zoo who were on display. We shopped for what seemed like a long time - considering no one was interested in purchasing anything - and then went off to another part of Beijing.
Our guide for the day was a very sweet woman who we first meet on our second day here - the day I was sick. She took me by the arm that day and brought me back inside the building. She told the women at the front desk that they were to call her if I became ill. Very nice. I felt safe knowing that they had directions from her.
She and the driver dropped us off in the direction of a couple of streets and told us to shop for an hour before dinner. I finally bargained to make a purchase. I stink at it, as I knew I would, and bought two things that I could completely do without but I felt better for having done it. I mostly just walked up and down the street and said hello to the Chinese there. I got a few hellos and one "you are very beautiful." I figured it was the only English he knew but I accepted it nonetheless and gave him a proper smile in return.
We met after our prescribed hour for dinner. We were gathered around a table that was intended for two fewer people than we had but I believe it was the biggest table they had. Our guide had come in advance and ordered all the food so we pretty much just sat there and waited for food to arrive. We had Peking duck! Yum. I would definitely go back for that. The fried tofu was also quiet excellent. I did not try the sheep face and the duck bones. I'm a Chinese food lightweight. We finished with noodles that you can only get in Beijing. They were pretty good but I was too full to notice.
Finally, we were off to the Peking opera. I'm not really sure how to describe it. It was kind of like Chinese vaudeville with acrobatics. Perhaps I will have to revisit this later. I don't think I can adequately describe it. I have also been up since 6:00 and am pooped. It is incredibly windy here today and seems to be blowing in sand from the desert. My eyes are scratchy and tired and my legs were pelted with sand several times. I'll probably feel more like talking about the opera tomorrow...
Thursday, May 29, 2008
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Niujie Mosque
Today was a free day so I actually spent most all of it with Henry. He had never been to the Muslim part of town and I haven't been anywhere so I said I would go with him. The university arranged for a car to take us so it was Henry, the driver, our student guide and me. We didn't see that much of the Muslim area but our guide did take us to the Niujie Mosque where we walked around and took pictures.
Our guide was the best so far. Her name was Li Rah and she will be serving as an interpreter for the Olympics. When I asked her if Beijing is ready for the Olympics she grinned and jumped up and down and said Beijing is ready! If she has anything to do with it I am sure they will be.
After we went to the mosque our guide took us to a Muslim restaurant. She said they wouldn't serve pork or snake. I was surprised but not disappointed that I wouldn't be able to enjoy any snake. The food was fantastic. We ordered several dishes and then ate sort of family style. My chopstick skills have improved a bit but I still struggle if the food is too slippery. I prefer the cheap wooden chopsticks at home that any food will stick to.
The driver also came in to eat with us. He did not speak much English but would speak through her. He was funny and nice and kept my tea cup full of jasmine tea. I learned several things at lunch, including what to do when someone fills your cup, no, yes, thank you, you're welcome, that one and this one. I think there may have been a couple of others but since I can't remember I don't think I can say that I learned them. The driver put some sort of fried/grilled eggplant on my plate that was probably the best thing there. I had not interest in trying it but felt obligated once he added it to my plate.
The Chinese often give themselves English names (at least the ones who speak English) to make it easier to pronounce their names. Our guide today had chosen Karen as her English name. She also speaks German, by the way. On the way back we told her that we felt we needed Chinese names. She spent a lot of time thinking about appropriate names for each of us. She ended up with something Long (dragon) for Henry and chose Quieng Chi Nu for me. Quieng has a similar sound as Jones in Chinese so that was easy. The Chi Nu part is actually a combination of meanings as most of their words are. It essentially means an angel in heaven near the mythical lake. Much more suitable than Myra I thought :) She wrote down both the Pinyin and the Chinese characters for me. I wish I could remember how to pronounce it...
The students who have been with us are really interesting to me. This student was no exception. We kept thanking her for spending time with us and she explained that it was an honor and a duty for her. She is proud of her country and enjoys showing it to people. Vickie said much the same thing. They are very patriotic these students.
After lunch Henry took me down to the nearest mall. There are actually two where we went, one older and one much newer. The mall is basically a bunch of small booths with serpentine walkways. We didn't purchase anything but it was interesting to look around. I will eventually have to purchase something but I know that my bargaining skills will be laughable.
Afterward we walked about two miles in some direction of the school. No clue which way but it was fun to walk around looking at the shops and watching the people. I have learned that if I look directly at someone and smile about 50% of the time they will smile back. Never broadly but they will at least acknowledge your smile. We are constantly pointed at, looked at and occasionally openly gawked. We are relatively close to the venue for the Olympic bicycling event. Maybe after August Westerners will no longer seem quiet so foreign to the Beijingers.
Looking forward to tomorrow - the Taoism Temple, the Beijing Enamel Factory (because who doesn't love enamel) and the Beijing Opera tomorrow night.
Our guide was the best so far. Her name was Li Rah and she will be serving as an interpreter for the Olympics. When I asked her if Beijing is ready for the Olympics she grinned and jumped up and down and said Beijing is ready! If she has anything to do with it I am sure they will be.
After we went to the mosque our guide took us to a Muslim restaurant. She said they wouldn't serve pork or snake. I was surprised but not disappointed that I wouldn't be able to enjoy any snake. The food was fantastic. We ordered several dishes and then ate sort of family style. My chopstick skills have improved a bit but I still struggle if the food is too slippery. I prefer the cheap wooden chopsticks at home that any food will stick to.
The driver also came in to eat with us. He did not speak much English but would speak through her. He was funny and nice and kept my tea cup full of jasmine tea. I learned several things at lunch, including what to do when someone fills your cup, no, yes, thank you, you're welcome, that one and this one. I think there may have been a couple of others but since I can't remember I don't think I can say that I learned them. The driver put some sort of fried/grilled eggplant on my plate that was probably the best thing there. I had not interest in trying it but felt obligated once he added it to my plate.
The Chinese often give themselves English names (at least the ones who speak English) to make it easier to pronounce their names. Our guide today had chosen Karen as her English name. She also speaks German, by the way. On the way back we told her that we felt we needed Chinese names. She spent a lot of time thinking about appropriate names for each of us. She ended up with something Long (dragon) for Henry and chose Quieng Chi Nu for me. Quieng has a similar sound as Jones in Chinese so that was easy. The Chi Nu part is actually a combination of meanings as most of their words are. It essentially means an angel in heaven near the mythical lake. Much more suitable than Myra I thought :) She wrote down both the Pinyin and the Chinese characters for me. I wish I could remember how to pronounce it...
The students who have been with us are really interesting to me. This student was no exception. We kept thanking her for spending time with us and she explained that it was an honor and a duty for her. She is proud of her country and enjoys showing it to people. Vickie said much the same thing. They are very patriotic these students.
After lunch Henry took me down to the nearest mall. There are actually two where we went, one older and one much newer. The mall is basically a bunch of small booths with serpentine walkways. We didn't purchase anything but it was interesting to look around. I will eventually have to purchase something but I know that my bargaining skills will be laughable.
Afterward we walked about two miles in some direction of the school. No clue which way but it was fun to walk around looking at the shops and watching the people. I have learned that if I look directly at someone and smile about 50% of the time they will smile back. Never broadly but they will at least acknowledge your smile. We are constantly pointed at, looked at and occasionally openly gawked. We are relatively close to the venue for the Olympic bicycling event. Maybe after August Westerners will no longer seem quiet so foreign to the Beijingers.
Looking forward to tomorrow - the Taoism Temple, the Beijing Enamel Factory (because who doesn't love enamel) and the Beijing Opera tomorrow night.
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Catching up
I'm trying to figure out how many days I have spent in China so far... I think this is my 3rd day. I will try to get caught up with today.
I began the blog in April and knew that time would move far too quickly. I was right. Boarded the plane for Beijing at 7:15 on Friday morning. We had to leave home at 5:30 so that we could pick up Henry and take him with us to the airport. I stayed up until 3:00 a.m. packing and adding music to my iPod (which I have not used since entering China.) I was grouchy and feeling stressed but Craig was nice and tried to calm me. He chatted with Henry on the way to the airport and then waited with us as everyone arrived for the plane. (Thank you, Craig. I am grateful.)
The flight was largely uneventful. I was extremely tired and slept most of the way. It wasn't really restful sleep but I wasn't as bored as I would have been otherwise. We had to go through security connecting from Japan to China but all went smoothly in both countries and no one had any problems. We arrived at NCUT (North China University of Technology) where we will be staying while in Beijing at about midnight Beijing time. Beijing is twelve hours ahead so it makes the math much easier. I can't always remember the day but I do at least know the time.
We are staying in the international guest housing at NCUT. Henry described it as being like a dormitory but nicer. Easy for Henry to say as he is staying in the definitely nicer faculty/guest hotel down the street. There are of us. Alice, an older returning student majoring in Art History who came on the trip last year, Neil, Ron and Michelle, students at ETSU, Jessica and Aubrey, the father/daughter duo, Henry and me. Jessica and Aubrey are leaving early and another couple will come in then - Eloise and Kirk.
Michelle and I are roommates and discovered by accident that we have the luxury suite. We have a refrigerator, shelves, and chairs. Apparently the others in our building do not have all of these luxuries....
May 25 - Campus tour
We had a campus orientation in the morning and left for the Square that afternoon. The campus is not very big. Roughly the same number of students as ETSU but on a much smaller piece of land. The students are taking final exams this week and will apparently be gone next week. I need to get out and take photos of them before they are all gone. The university has given us each a debit card with somewhere from 600 to 800 Yuan. We can purchase drinks for snacks from the convenience store and can eat at any of the "cafeterias" on campus. The cafeterias look like Chinese takeout places. Ordering food is an adventure because there isn't always English to accompany the food. You can sometimes point but it's not a perfect system. I felt adventurous just learning how to order food and use my debit card.
We had lunch on campus this day and were treated to a traditional formal Chinese meal. We all sat at a round table and plate after plate after plate was presented and then turned on an elaborate lazy susan. Most of the food was good, some was too interesting for me to even want to try. I don't know what I was thinking but should have practiced my chop sticking before leaving. I have improved already and will be fine in another couple of days but I just hadn't even thought about it. The meal was elaborate and the room was very nice but there was no air conditioning and it was over 90 outside. Made for a long meal.
Tiananmen Square
There are photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/mmyyrraa if you want to have a look. Our student guide took us through the Great Hall of the People, Tiananment Square and the Gate of Heavenly Peace. It was all very interesting but I admit that I spent more time noticing people than any of the things we looked at. None of my photos reflect it because I have been reluctant to ask for photos. It is hard to tell what they think of us. I have heard that they are very friendly and have not seen any evidence to the contrary but they do not smile when they look at you. They are openly curious and while not exactly hostile, not exactly friendly either. I have been struck by how few Westerners we have seen. Maybe a dozen.
It was miserably hot on Monday especially for people who had spent so much time on a plane the day before and gotten virtually no sleep. Fortunately, it is generally breezy here. It is definitely a dry, warm breeze but it would be stifling if not present. It is also incredibly dusty and polluted. It is hard to know which is more pervasive but both are definitely present. You would walk outside and all moisture immediately leaves your body.
We came back to the university, ate a group dinner and were in bed by 8:00 p.m. The sun rises at 4:00 a.m. here. I have not been able to sleep past 5:00 since arriving. I have a sleep mask but it doesn't seem to help. My body just knows that the sun is shining in. I am writing this at 8:45 p.m. but my body is convinced that it is 11:00 p.m. or later.
Tuesday - May 26
Absolutely nothing to report. The rest of the group learned about Chinese characters in the morning, went to the zoo to see the giant pandas and engaged in their first Beijing bargaining sessions. I went to bed Monday night not feeling well but thought I was feeling better on Tuesday morning. I got ready to go but was immediately dizzy, nauseous and broke out in cold sweats. I can say it now because I am feeling much better but I was actually a little scared. Have never quite felt like that before. My vision was even blurred. I was pretty certain that I was going to have to fly back to the United States for emergency medical treatment. Turns out I basically just needed to spend the day in bed. I slept most of the day, reviving only when Michelle (my roommate) came in to keep me updated on the day. Everyone was very sweet. Michelle and Henry provided me with good old American protein bars and Michelle picked up water and a sports drink for me at the convenience store.
Wednesday - May 27
I awoke today with a headache, blurred vision, and light-headed. I actually felt much better though and went on to our lecture session where we learned about Chinese Traditional Festivals. Jessica decided that she was tired of the Chinese food available on campus so we headed out afterward in search of the nearest McDonald's. We found one for only 15 Yuan. I had a McNugget meal and am happy to report that it was exactly the same as you would get at home (good, bad or indifferent.) It only cost about $2.50 US and included some scrumptious Thai Mayo dipping sauce.
I decided to walk back with the kids and we ended up walking for about two hours. We had fun at the Wu Mart and I picked up some delicious corn ice cream. Michelle and I separated from the guys and didn't think we would actually make it back but we did and even on time for the Capital Museum.
The Capital Museum was good. Lots of very old Chinese art. Couldn't really take pictures and my bag was confiscated at the door so I couldn't put in eyedrops and therefore couldn't see well. The dust really limits the vision. Returned to campus and had a very good meal in one of the on-campus places. The menu was in Chinese so we chose our dishes by pointing at things on other people's plates. Classy Americans that we are.
I lost a day to what I assume was exhaustion but felt much better about things today. Tomorrow is a free day and I am going with Henry to the Muslim area. Not sure exactly what we will see but Henry wanted to go and I had no other plans. I wish I knew even just a little bit of Chinese but it is still rather interesting. I have been surprised at how few seem to know English. We stopped some young men today to ask for directions and they waved us off like we had a contagious disease. The girls we asked giggled and pushed the one English speaker to the front of the pack so that she could help us. She did help us and seemed quite happy about it but they all went away giggling. I don't understand the giggle yet. More later. I am absolutely pooped and will be asleep in less than 30 minutes.
... For those of you with my itenary, it has changed just a bit. I will update it and send out again ...
I began the blog in April and knew that time would move far too quickly. I was right. Boarded the plane for Beijing at 7:15 on Friday morning. We had to leave home at 5:30 so that we could pick up Henry and take him with us to the airport. I stayed up until 3:00 a.m. packing and adding music to my iPod (which I have not used since entering China.) I was grouchy and feeling stressed but Craig was nice and tried to calm me. He chatted with Henry on the way to the airport and then waited with us as everyone arrived for the plane. (Thank you, Craig. I am grateful.)
The flight was largely uneventful. I was extremely tired and slept most of the way. It wasn't really restful sleep but I wasn't as bored as I would have been otherwise. We had to go through security connecting from Japan to China but all went smoothly in both countries and no one had any problems. We arrived at NCUT (North China University of Technology) where we will be staying while in Beijing at about midnight Beijing time. Beijing is twelve hours ahead so it makes the math much easier. I can't always remember the day but I do at least know the time.
We are staying in the international guest housing at NCUT. Henry described it as being like a dormitory but nicer. Easy for Henry to say as he is staying in the definitely nicer faculty/guest hotel down the street. There are of us. Alice, an older returning student majoring in Art History who came on the trip last year, Neil, Ron and Michelle, students at ETSU, Jessica and Aubrey, the father/daughter duo, Henry and me. Jessica and Aubrey are leaving early and another couple will come in then - Eloise and Kirk.
Michelle and I are roommates and discovered by accident that we have the luxury suite. We have a refrigerator, shelves, and chairs. Apparently the others in our building do not have all of these luxuries....
May 25 - Campus tour
We had a campus orientation in the morning and left for the Square that afternoon. The campus is not very big. Roughly the same number of students as ETSU but on a much smaller piece of land. The students are taking final exams this week and will apparently be gone next week. I need to get out and take photos of them before they are all gone. The university has given us each a debit card with somewhere from 600 to 800 Yuan. We can purchase drinks for snacks from the convenience store and can eat at any of the "cafeterias" on campus. The cafeterias look like Chinese takeout places. Ordering food is an adventure because there isn't always English to accompany the food. You can sometimes point but it's not a perfect system. I felt adventurous just learning how to order food and use my debit card.
We had lunch on campus this day and were treated to a traditional formal Chinese meal. We all sat at a round table and plate after plate after plate was presented and then turned on an elaborate lazy susan. Most of the food was good, some was too interesting for me to even want to try. I don't know what I was thinking but should have practiced my chop sticking before leaving. I have improved already and will be fine in another couple of days but I just hadn't even thought about it. The meal was elaborate and the room was very nice but there was no air conditioning and it was over 90 outside. Made for a long meal.
Tiananmen Square
There are photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/mmyyrraa if you want to have a look. Our student guide took us through the Great Hall of the People, Tiananment Square and the Gate of Heavenly Peace. It was all very interesting but I admit that I spent more time noticing people than any of the things we looked at. None of my photos reflect it because I have been reluctant to ask for photos. It is hard to tell what they think of us. I have heard that they are very friendly and have not seen any evidence to the contrary but they do not smile when they look at you. They are openly curious and while not exactly hostile, not exactly friendly either. I have been struck by how few Westerners we have seen. Maybe a dozen.
It was miserably hot on Monday especially for people who had spent so much time on a plane the day before and gotten virtually no sleep. Fortunately, it is generally breezy here. It is definitely a dry, warm breeze but it would be stifling if not present. It is also incredibly dusty and polluted. It is hard to know which is more pervasive but both are definitely present. You would walk outside and all moisture immediately leaves your body.
We came back to the university, ate a group dinner and were in bed by 8:00 p.m. The sun rises at 4:00 a.m. here. I have not been able to sleep past 5:00 since arriving. I have a sleep mask but it doesn't seem to help. My body just knows that the sun is shining in. I am writing this at 8:45 p.m. but my body is convinced that it is 11:00 p.m. or later.
Tuesday - May 26
Absolutely nothing to report. The rest of the group learned about Chinese characters in the morning, went to the zoo to see the giant pandas and engaged in their first Beijing bargaining sessions. I went to bed Monday night not feeling well but thought I was feeling better on Tuesday morning. I got ready to go but was immediately dizzy, nauseous and broke out in cold sweats. I can say it now because I am feeling much better but I was actually a little scared. Have never quite felt like that before. My vision was even blurred. I was pretty certain that I was going to have to fly back to the United States for emergency medical treatment. Turns out I basically just needed to spend the day in bed. I slept most of the day, reviving only when Michelle (my roommate) came in to keep me updated on the day. Everyone was very sweet. Michelle and Henry provided me with good old American protein bars and Michelle picked up water and a sports drink for me at the convenience store.
Wednesday - May 27
I awoke today with a headache, blurred vision, and light-headed. I actually felt much better though and went on to our lecture session where we learned about Chinese Traditional Festivals. Jessica decided that she was tired of the Chinese food available on campus so we headed out afterward in search of the nearest McDonald's. We found one for only 15 Yuan. I had a McNugget meal and am happy to report that it was exactly the same as you would get at home (good, bad or indifferent.) It only cost about $2.50 US and included some scrumptious Thai Mayo dipping sauce.
I decided to walk back with the kids and we ended up walking for about two hours. We had fun at the Wu Mart and I picked up some delicious corn ice cream. Michelle and I separated from the guys and didn't think we would actually make it back but we did and even on time for the Capital Museum.
The Capital Museum was good. Lots of very old Chinese art. Couldn't really take pictures and my bag was confiscated at the door so I couldn't put in eyedrops and therefore couldn't see well. The dust really limits the vision. Returned to campus and had a very good meal in one of the on-campus places. The menu was in Chinese so we chose our dishes by pointing at things on other people's plates. Classy Americans that we are.
I lost a day to what I assume was exhaustion but felt much better about things today. Tomorrow is a free day and I am going with Henry to the Muslim area. Not sure exactly what we will see but Henry wanted to go and I had no other plans. I wish I knew even just a little bit of Chinese but it is still rather interesting. I have been surprised at how few seem to know English. We stopped some young men today to ask for directions and they waved us off like we had a contagious disease. The girls we asked giggled and pushed the one English speaker to the front of the pack so that she could help us. She did help us and seemed quite happy about it but they all went away giggling. I don't understand the giggle yet. More later. I am absolutely pooped and will be asleep in less than 30 minutes.
... For those of you with my itenary, it has changed just a bit. I will update it and send out again ...
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